Day 22: Helmsdale to Thurso

Another good breakfast, with a healthy kick of tea, set me up nicely for a trip into a wild wilderness. The wind had turned to blow hard from the north and the rain was set in for the day.

So it was a bit exciting to be heading along a singletrack road, up the Strath of Kildonan and then down the Strath of Halladale, for almost 40 miles into that wind, with just a hotel and small RSPB centre after 24 miles to take refuge in. That 24 miles took ages, but it was mostly okay thanks for the fantastic scenery and the excitement that I might just get a spot of a Golden Eagle. The only downside was, strangely, the traffic. As the wind was gusting hard past my ears I couldn't hear the traffic behind me, and one or two drivers - especially one idiot in a maroon fiesta, bless him - decided to pass regardless of the width of road and whether or not I was aware of his presence. This was a bit sad as the passing places were only about every 400 yards or so.



Views of the Strath of Kildonan:



View up the Strath from just outside Helmsdale...








The impressive River Helmsdale which runs up the Strath ..






Spotted on the way up the train from Inverness - Thurso ( my ride back in a couple of days time ) ..






The Kildonan Burn, where you can pan for gold ..





The higher up I went the worse the weather got ..






Anyway, making it to Forsinard and the shelter of the RSPB visitors centre was heaven. I enjoyed a couple of cups of tea, and a bag of fruit & nuts and dripped all over their floor whilst waiting for the rain to die down a little. When it didn't I pushed on, for a testing 200 yards to the hotel and popped in for some lunch. Here they had a fire and some comfy leather chairs, where I enjoyed a tasty cheese sarnie and large pot of tea. I left feeling well fed and highly caffeinated.

Thankfully from Forsinard it was a steady downhill along the Strath of Halladale to the 'A' road along the North Coast. Sadly during the run through this boggy wilderness I didn't spot any wildlife in particular - certainly not an Eagle, nor even any of the numerous Red Deer.


River Halladale giving it some welly ...

Made it to the North Coast at last !

The run alongside the Atlantic was still breezy but okay and I was glad to make it to Thurso in reasonable time.

It was never really with me ..

Treated myself to a pretty good takeaway Chicken Biryani, with Prawn Puree for starters. I was impressed by the staff's offer of a complimentary Irn Bru whist I was waiting for my meal. Didn't sleep that well that night, probably too hyper after the gallons of tea mixed with the excitement of knowing the next day would be my last.

Stats:

Mileage 53.7
Total 1,128.7
Eagles 0
Red Deer 0

Cheers,

Mat.